kawasaki 1100 instructoins

COFFMAN'S EXHAUST

"Signature Series" Kawasaki 1100 ZXI/STX Exhaust

PN: SSK1100

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Please read all instructions PRIOR to installing your Coffman exhaust

The following is mandatory to do prior to installing (should you have questions regarding this, please call Coffman's before running your exhaust.)

1. You MUST run the waterbox and the timing advance plate with the exhaust. These parts are included in your package. If you do not run the waterbox that we supply, and run either a stock or other manufacturers waterbox, you CAN damage your motor! ALSO...You must run the rubber flap on the rear exhaust! (Removing this DOES NOT increase your power!)

2. Make sure that your 1100 ski is equipped with all the update recalls that were required by Kawasaki prior to running.

3. Let the buyers beware that the very nature of our products and service is to increase the speed and accelleration of the vehicles that these products are installed upon. This demands an increase in the awareness of the operators of said vehicles to proceed with extreme caution. Thereby avoiding the risk of personal injury from the effects of elevated performance levels. All of our parts and services have been thoroughly tested by our staff of technicians and test riders. While we have made every effort to provide you with the top quality products, the nature of high performance modifi-

cations lends itself to the risk of product failures from a variety of reasons. Overwhelmingly, the majority of these failures are preventable by the customers implementing carefully established tuning procedures or having a personal watercraft professional work on your ski. We highly suggest having a professional install and tune your exhaust system if you are not familiar with your motor and tuning procedures.

4. This system runs at a higher sound level than stock, however is within the decibal limits at most lakes. Testing is underway to produce an even quieter system (yet keep the performance!) Once again...DO NOT REMOVE the stock rubber flap located on the rear of your boat! This keeps your sound level down as well as water from being backwashed into your ski.

5. To achieve the performance gains on your stock Kawasaki 1100 watercraft, it is imperative that all parts are utilized that are included in your package. This includes, the expansion chamber, waterbox, electronic water injection and timing advance plates. No warranties are expressed or implied on other than completely stock boats.

6. On the '97-98 boats, the oil injection was moved forward. You will need to shift the neck of the oiler off to the side to clear the pipe and secure, or remove completely and run premix. (A '96 oil injection unit can also be used where it is located in the back of the watercraft)

7. You must run the mount from the exhaust chamber to the head. If you run an aftermarket head, and the mount does not fit, YOU MUST modify the mount or prototype one that will adapt. It is impossible for us to adapt to every other aftermarket manufacturers head. We have mounted this exhaust to the stock OEM head. Other aftermarket heads that have adapted are ADA and the Cold Fusion aftermarket heads.

8. IMPORTANT NOTE: We have found on running higher compression motors with this exhaust system or even the stock exhaust system, it creates more heat on the front cylinder. To alleviate this heat, we have found that if you reroute the water in the exhaust manifold by adding another 1/2" fitting to the front of the exhaust manifold, it helps cool this overheating scenario. We have included a diagram to show you how we achieved this.

We have also found that on highly modified boats, it is highly suggested to run dual cooling lines to accommodate. Keep in mind that this system was designed for a STOCK Kawasaki 1100 personal watercraft, and these are suggestions to help your boat run more efficiently.

"Signature Series" Kawasaki 1100ZXI/STX

Installation Instructions

(Please read Prior to Installing)

Parts Included

The following are parts used on the exhaust system portion of your package

1ea. Chamber Body 1ea. Head Pipe

1ea. Waterbox 1ea. Head Pipe Gasket

1ea. 4"ID x 2 1/4"L Silicone Hose 1ea. 2 1/2"ID x 12" Hose

1ea. 1/2"ID x 25" Black Waterline 1ea. 1/2ID x 6"L Black Waterline

1ea. 1/4"ID x 2 1/2" Black waterline 1ea. 1/4"ID x 35"L Black Waterline

1ea. 1/4"ID x 9"L Black Waterline 1ea. 3/8"ID x 3" Black Waterline

1ea. 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" "T" Fitting 1ea. 1/2" x 3/8" x 1/2" "T" Fitting

2ea. Rubber Dampener (Male/Male) 2ea. 100 x 120 Norma Hose Clamps

6ea. 1/2" Hose Clamps 2ea. 3/8" Hose Clamps

1ea. Straight Nylon "Mendor" Fitting 4ea. 10 x 25 Stainless Allen Bolts

5ea. Zip Ties 1ea. 120 Main Jet

3ea. 3/8 Stainless Nut 3ea. 3/8 Stainless Washer

3ea. 3/8 Stainless Lock Washer

1ea. 2 1/2" x 8" Aluminum Tube w/clamps (to be used on the STX boats only)

1ea. exhaust mounting bracket

The following parts are used on the timing advance portion of your package:

1ea. Timing Advance Plate 2ea. Tapered 5mm Stainless Bolt

2ea. 5mm Stainless Bolt 2ea. 5mm Stainless Flat Washer

1ea. Magnito Gasket

The following parts are used on the water injection portion of your package:

1ea. Microtouch Modular 1ea. Solenoid

1ea. 1/8 x 1/4 Straight Brass Fitting 1ea. 1/8 x 3/8 Straight Brass Fitting

2ea. Female Electrical connectors 2ea. Rubber Seals

1ea. Weather Connector

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

1. Remove the stock flame arrestors and carbs.

2. Remove the 3 spark plugs from head.

3. Remove the stock waterline from the top of the head to the head pipe.

4. Remove the water fitting out of the head.

5. Remove the stock exhaust system and waterbox leaving the STOCK exhaust manifold. (Tip! If you loosen up the electrical box and shift off to one side, this makes it much easier to remove the waterbox)

At this point, we're not going to go further with the installation of the exhaust, but are going to proceed to the timing advance unit!

Installation of timing advance:

1. Remove the 1/4" waterline from the bottom of the exhaust manifold to the magnito cover and the 1/4" waterline from the magnito cover to the stock exhaust system.

2. Remove the two allen bolts on the oil pump, and set the oil pump to the side.

3. Remove the two front motor mount bolts.

4. Remove the magnito cover. The easiest way to do this on a ZXI 1100, is to run a tie strap from the front tab on the head to the seat latch. Lift up on the front of the motor while pulling the tie strap. The motor should now set up high enough to get to the bottom bolts on the magnito cover.

NOTE: Make sure that you you remove the magnito cover, you do not loose the shim and spring to the bendix shaft! It is best to set the mag cover on the outside of the boat to work on.

5. Locate the black pick up, and unscrew from the inside cover.

6. Place the advance plate (supplied) onto cover where the black pick up was located. Screw the 2ea. tapered 5mm bolts into the plate on magnito cover. (Use Loc-tite!)

7. Grind the bottom tabs of the black pick up so that the plate sets flush against the timing advance plate. You must also grind the top corner of the black pick up, so that it does not hit the magnito cover. (PLEASE SEE DIAGRAM!)

8. Screw down the black pick up, using the 5mm bolts and washers (UNTAPERED) supplied. (Loc-tite these bolts, and DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!) At this time, install the Magnito gasket (supplied) between the magnito cover and engine. (LEAVE THE STOCK O-RING IN PLACE!)

9. Replace the magnito cover back onto the motor, and do not forget the spring and the washer on the bendix shaft. Go back and make sure that all the bolts are tightened.

YOU'VE NOW COMPLETED THE MOST DIFFICULT PART OF THE INSTALLATION!

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you would like Coffman's to install the timing plate for you, you can send your magnito cover and parts supplied and we can install it for $25.00 plus shipping.

10. Replace the 1/4" waterline from the bottom of the exhaust manifold to the front cover of magnito and tighten with stock clamp.

11. Replace the oiler, and tighten with the stock allen bolts. Make sure you allign the oiler correctly!

12. Release the motor down and replace the motor mount bolts and tighten.

Installation of expansion chamber:

If you are planning on running an aftermarket head, NOW is the time to change it! If you decide you want to put a head on later, you'll need to remove the pipe to do this!

CLEAN THE SURFACE OF THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD FLANGE. IF IT IS PAINTED, YOU MUST REMOVE ALL PAINT TO GET A SOLID SEAL FROM THE GASKET! THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!

1. Install the Coffman waterbox.

2. Install the hose on the exit of the waterbox, but do not put the rubber strap on the box YET.

3. Install the 2 1/2" x 12" silicone hose onto waterbox. Slide the stock hose clamps onto the hose, but do not tighten yet.NOTE: On the STX model 1100's, you will utilize the 2 1/2 x 8 aluminum tube.

Cut the 2 1/2 " silicone hose in the center, and install aluminum tube between hose lengths and clamp with supplied clamps.

4. Find the end of the 1/2" stock waterline on the bottom of the exhaust manifold, and measure back 3" from exhaust manifold and cut line. Install the 1/2 x 3/8 x 1/2" T-Fitting into this line (LIKE DIAGRAM) and tighten with clamps supplied.

5. Find the exiting 1/2" waterline going out the boat and attach the 1/2" Mendor Nylon straight fitting. Tighten tube with clamp.

6. Install the 1/2" x 25" black waterline (supplied) onto the opposite end of the Mendor fitting and clamp. Lay this line on the bottom of the boat leading to the front of the boat. (This will make easier access when connecting onto the chamber)

7. Install the electrical box and all other wires into stock location, and tighten.

8. Remove the two dowel fittings located on the exhaust manifold mount (where stock pipe was mounted to). These fittings just pull out.

9. Take the Coffman chamber body which will already have the 4" silicone coupler installed, and slide into boat.

Remove 2 of the 8mm nuts that hold the head down. (In the #14 and #17 location on head) and place bracket supplied onto head, and reinstall nuts torquing down to factory specs. Install the other male/male rubber dampener (that doesn't have the X), and install onto top of exhaust bracket and tighten with 3/8 nut/flat washer/lock washer, and tighten.

10. Take the black rubber dampener supplied (Marked with an X)

The bolt appears like it is missing 2 threads on it compared to the oppisite end. This side gets screwed into the front exhaust mount on the exhaust manifold, and tighten.

11. Install the chamber body onto the rubber amount utilizing the 3/8" lock washer, flat washer and 3/8" nut. But do not tighten yet. VERY IMPORTANT....On the STX models, there is less clearance between the chamber body and the front lip of motor compartment. Make sure there is clearance by filing on this section of fiberglass to clear.

12. Take the exhaust manifold /head pipe gasket and put on some high tack sealant on it, and lay on the exhaust manifold. Put the front two 10 x 25 allen bolts (supplied) into exhaust manifold, leaving approx. 1/2" of threads sticking up.

13. Take the two 100-120 clamps (supplied) and slide over the 4 1/2" silicone hose, positioning the head of the clamps on the side of the pipe. DO NOT PUT ON THE TOP OF PIPE, AS THEY WILL HIT THE SEAT!

14. Slide the head pipe into the silicone hose, and onto the two 10 x 25 bolts and align the remainder two bolt holes.Install the remainder two 10 x 25 bolts into exhaust manifold (USE LOC-TITE!) Tighten to 32ft. pounds.

15. Install the front spark plug, and put the spark plug cap back onto it. Push the chamber body against the head pipe, making sure it clears the spark plug cap on the spark plug. If it clears, you can now tighten the clamps on the coupler (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!) making sure that the clamps are straight, and not at an angle over coupler.

16. Tighten the 3/8" nut on the rubber dampener.

17. Remove the stock brass fitting with flush spicket on the front of the STOCK HEAD PIPE, and install on the front of the Coffman head pipe. USE LOC-TITE!

18. Install the stock 1/2" straight brass fitting back into head that was removed in step number 4 at the beginning of the instructions.

19. Install the stock waterline from the head to the head pipe and tighten with stock clamps.

20. Install the remainder spark plugs and caps.

21. Install the 2 1/2" x 12" silicone hose from the waterbox to the pipe, and clamp with stock clamps.

22. Reinstall the stock rubber strap onto the Coffman waterbox. Note: If after running your exhaust system, and would like to quiet it down, some, you can remove the brass fitting located on the tail portion of the expansion chamber and replace with a standard 1/4" brass fitting. The one currently installed as a spray nozzle within the fitting metering the water flow. You will however notice a loss in top end performance. This can be done at your discretion.

23. Reach under the front of the exhaust system, and take the 1/2" x 25" waterline that was lain on the bottom of the boat, and slide a clamp over it. Install onto the 1/2" 90 degree brass fitting on the bottom of the chamber, and tighten.

24. Take the 1/2" x 6" black hose, and slide two 1/2" clamps over it. Install one side on the 90 degree brass fitting on the top of the head pipe, and the opposite end on the top of the 90 degree fitting on the top of the chamber body. MAKE SURE that the head on the clamp is facing the BOTTOM of the hose, so that it does not hit the seat. CLEARANCE IS IMPERATIVE! Go ahead at this point and clamp down.

25. Take the 1/4" x 2 1/4" waterline (supplied) and attach to the top (straight through) part of the 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/4 "T" Fitting. Zip tie in place.

26. Take the 1/4" x 35" waterline (supplied) and attach to the bottom stem of the same "T" and zip tie in place.

27. Attach the 2 1/4" waterline of the "T" to the top of the magnito cover and clamp. Take the 1/4" x 35" side, and attach to the straight brass fitting on the tail portion of the expansion chamber, and clamp.

28. Take the open end of the "T" and attach to the line from the water heat sensor.

29. There is a air heat sensor that is located on the side of the hull (approx. 3" long) that connects to the electrical box. This sensor advances the timing on the watercraft when it hits a certain air temp. Unplug this sensor and remove the sensor from the boat or zip tie the lines out of the way.

The end that is connected to the electrical box, seal with electrical tape so that no water can enter. VERY IMPORTANT!

Installation of electronic water injection:

1. On the solenoid, find the side that says "IN". Install the 3/8 straight brass fitting into this end. Install the 1/4" straight brass fitting on the opposite end.

2. On the wires coming from the solenoid, slide the rubber seals over each wire, then attach the female electrical connector onto seal, and crimp down. Put these wires into the weather connector (You can look at the Microtouch portion of this injection unit to see how it is done the same)

3. On the Microtouch water controller module, preset to 2000 "ON" and 7000 "OFF".

4. Hook the wires onto the battery according to the Microtouch instructions (also enclosed).

5. Secure the module onto the battery strap or the oil tank strap.

6. Plug the solenoid into the module.

7. Take the 3/8" x 3" waterline (supplied) and hook up to the bottom stem of the 1/2" x 3/8" x 1/2" incoming waterline "T". Hook up the other end of this 3/8 x 3" waterline, to the 3/8 brass fitting on solenoid, and clamp.(This same "T" was partially used in step #4 in the expansion chamber installation procedures)

8. Take the 1/4" x 9" waterline and attack to the 1/4" straight brass fitting on the solenoid, and clamp. Attach the other end of this waterline to the straight brass fitting on head pipe, and clamp.

9. Go back and make sure that all hoses, clamps, zip ties are secure.

Clearance of pipe to seat

On some models, there is less clearance between the chamber body and the underside of your seat. You MUST make sure they clear. An easy way to do this, is by heating up the bottom of the seat (where the pipe is not clearing)-MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT OVER HEAT! This is just to soften the plastic. Put a towel folded 3 over on top of chamber body. Reinstall the seat and let it set. This will mold the plastic around the chamber. Not all models require this, so check first! Remove the towel, and you should now have clearance around the chamber body.

Reinstalling stock carburetors

It is important to know that all testing was done at sea level with the STOCK flame arrestors. If you have or are going to utilize aftermarket flame arrestors, you will need to change the pop off pressure on your carbs. PLEASE CONTACT THE MANUFACTURERS OF THE FLAME ARRESTORS YOU ARE PURCHASING TO GET FURTHER JETTING INFORMATION. THIS IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY!

On the '96-97 ZXI/STX model boats, jetting was as follows:

LOW SPEED SCREWS: 1 TURN TO 3/4 TURN (Turning all the way in and backing out)

HIGH SPEED SCREWS: 3/4 TURN TO 1/4 TURN (Turning all the way in and backing out)

These specs are leaner than stock, All jetting was done on the '96-97 models. '98 model carbs should be replaced with aftermarket carbs for overall best performance.(Stock Mikuni 46 carbs worked great in our inhouse tests. We saw a 10hp increase over stock, and jetting was a breeze!) Otherwise, you can adjust your stock carbs by drilling out the main jet with a 51 drill bit (.067). We have found that the stock carbs on these boats do not run efficiently. Altitude, temperature and any other engine modifications will vary these specifications, and are to be used as a guideline only.

Props:

We ran the stock prop in our testing, however prop tests are currently under way for even better performance. To date (4/10/98), the only prop tested was the Nu-Jet 15.0, and was found to pull stronger throughout the entire powerband. Both Solas and Skat-Trak props will be tested. If you have a different aftermarket impellor already installed, it MAY NOT perform with this set up. Keep in mind that you have a huge horsepower gain over stock, and the powerband needs to be matched from what your pump /prop combination is vs. the motor with this modification performed.

Other Performance Parts:

Aftermarket heads: What we have found is that by running 150 psi, we were able to run 92 octane gas, and did not have to resort to a mixture of race/pump gas. Anything above 150 pounds may require a mixture of race/pump fuel. IMPORTANT NOTE: If you are running a higher compression head, we highly suggest running a secondary bypass line from your head out the boat. This will help cool your motor further. Also see our original notes on the cover page prior to the instructions.

If you would like to quiet your boat down further, you can remove the brass fitting located on the tail section of the chamber body and replace with a standard 1/4" brass fitting. The one currently installed has a spray nozzle enclosed within it metering the waterflow. If you decide to do this, you will however notice a loss in top end performance. ALWAYS run the rubber flap on the rear exhaust.

After running your boat briefly: Make sure you go back and tighten all bolts, nuts, and clamps. It is also very important to periodically check your clamps, dampeners, and other hardware, and that they are in good shape at all times. You are purchasing a high performance exhaust that requires greater care and maintenance. This is your responsibility. Any replacement parts on this exhaust can be purchased directly from Coffman's or you can have your local dealer order it.

Tuning

For people that are running other than stock applications, to achieve more torque, and also running high pitched props on their boat, you can experiment with the torque curve by doing the following:

Remove the brass plug on the chamber body above spark plug location, and install a 1/8" x 1/4" straight brass fitting and thread it for a main jet (starting out with a 100 main jet). Above the 1/4" T fitting that is installed on the magnito cover, splice into this line and install another 1/4" T-Fitting. From the STEM of this T-Fitting, run a line to the brass fitting with the main jet that you just installed. Run the opposite lines to the top of the "T" fitting

This will give you the ability to adjust your torque curve. Play with the jet sizes to find what is appropriate for your modified boat. ALL modified boats will run differently depending on porting, prop, compression etc. Do this at your discretion, and ALWAYS run a sea strainer!

Note from the Manufacturer

We would like to take this opportunity to say THANK YOU for purchasing a Coffman exhaust system. For 25 years, we have been manufacturing high performance parts for the motorcycle/ATV and personal watercraft marketplace. Your support has helped us to become what we are today, and we are sincerely grateful for this. Should you have any questions or comments, please do not hesitate to contact us at the following address and phone.

Coffman's Exhaust Systems, Inc. 181 Wabash Ave. Ukiah, CA 95482

(707)462-7881 or (707)462-9369 fax or coffmans@pacific.net (e-mail)